Golden Bay VIII: Wharariki Beach

The grass-covered sand-blwon hills near the Whararariki turn off, Golden Bay.
The grass-covered sand-blown hills near the Whararariki turn off, Golden Bay.

Wharariki Beach is spectacular in that wild, west coast New Zealand way.

 

The approach is through grassed-over sandhills that built up over thousands of years aided and abetted by the lower sea levels of the last ice age that exposed huge swathes of brilliant white sands.

 

The prevailing westerlies bend the manuka scrub into fantastic shapes. Nearer the beach damp hollows behind the active dunes were full of difficult-to-spot bird life. On the walk out just by the car park we ran into a group of Californian Quail who made of at great speed in a stuttering upright walk, their little head pendants fluttering.

Manuka scrub and sandhills with cattle above Cape Farewell, Golden Bay.
Manuka scrub and sandhills with cattle above Cape Farewell, Golden Bay.

The beach rock formations are huge and imposing and the beach is wide and exposed to the full force of the Tasman Sea. Some protection is afforded by the Archway Islands and these are a favourite breeding ground for New Zealand Fur Seals.

 

We hit the beach at the perfect time for seal-pup-watching purely by chance. With the waning sun bouncing off the sand and crisp clear waves we stood entranced for half an hour watching the pups cavort, swim effortlessly up to the watchers and run on their little flippers into the oncoming waves. Their mums watched placidly from the haul-out rocks. For more photos go to New Zealand Fur Seals.

 

It was idyllic but the tide began to flow and the safe rockpool refuge was soon flooded with powerful eddies and currents. The walk back in the piercing light up and over the dunes was more tiring than it should have been and the drive back to Pohara was laced with anxiety as we raced to catch the stores in Collingwood before they closed.

Cattle grazing amongst ti kouka/cabbage trees on the sandhills on the approach to Wharariki Beach to the west of Golden Bay.
Cattle grazing amongst ti kouka/cabbage trees on the sandhills on the approach to Wharariki Beach to the west of Golden Bay.
Golden Bay boasts the largest and oldest to kouka/Cabbage Tree in New Zealand. It is estimated to be 400-500 years old, stands 17 metres tall and has a circumference of 9 metres.
Golden Bay boasts the largest and oldest to kouka/Cabbage Tree in New Zealand. It is estimated to be 400-500 years old, stands 17 metres tall and has a circumference of 9 metres.
Snapper snapped: French couple on the path to Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
Snapper snapped: French couple on the path to Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
The opening vista of Wharariki Beach with dense bush growing in the damp hollows behind the active dune line.
The opening vista of Wharariki Beach with dense bush growing in the damp hollows behind the active dune line.
The fine wind blown sands of Wharariki Beach and the distant Archway Islands. The endemic coastal sedge pingao - Ficinia spiralis - has long since been supplanted by Marram Grass - Ammophila.
The fine wind blown sands of Wharariki Beach and the distant Archway Islands. The endemic coastal sedge pingao - Ficinia spiralis - has long since been supplanted by Marram Grass - Ammophila.
John waits on the dark sands of the intertidal zone at Wharariki Beach.
John waits on the dark sands of the intertidal zone at Wharariki Beach.
The fur seal pup watchers: Wharariki Beach west of Golden Bay.
The fur seal pup watchers: Wharariki Beach west of Golden Bay.
Wind blown sand and massive rock formations at Wharariki Beach west of Golden Bay.
Wind blown sand and massive rock formations at Wharariki Beach west of Golden Bay.
Wind erosion on the point of this giant rock formation on Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
Wind erosion on the point of this giant rock formation on Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
Wharariki beach, Archway Islands and seal watchers, Golden Bay.
Wharariki beach, Archway Islands and seal watchers, Golden Bay.
Black against the glittering water the seal pups would every now and then do a mad dash for the incoming waves. Fur seals are unique amongst seals at being able to run on their flippers.
Black against the glittering water the seal pups would every now and then do a mad dash for the incoming waves. Fur seals are unique amongst seals at being able to run on their flippers.
The wild Tasman Sea on a calm and delightful late afternoon at Wharariki Beach.
The wild Tasman Sea on a calm and delightful late afternoon at Wharariki Beach.
Brilliant reflections at Wharariki Beach in the film of seawater overlying the tidal sands.
Brilliant reflections at Wharariki Beach in the film of seawater overlying the tidal sands.
Patterns in the sand dunes at Wharariki Beach.
Patterns in the sand dunes at Wharariki Beach.
The scale of the rock revealed on Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
The scale of the rock revealed on Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
The sun catching the translucence of these Variable Oytercatchers' bill on Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
The sun catching the translucence of these Variable Oytercatchers' bills on Wharariki Beach, Golden Bay.
The Principal's boots get a carry: John and Karen at the end of a long day exploring Golden Bay.
The Principal's boots get a carry: John and Karen at the end of a long day exploring Golden Bay and the west coast.
Ti Kouka/Cabbage tree - Cordyline australis - growing on the sandhills near Cape Farewell, South Island.
Ti Kouka/Cabbage tree - Cordyline australis - growing on the sandhills near Cape Farewell, South Island. Known as the 'Torquay Palm' in the UK.
Galvanised wire fencing - a huge revolution in farming and key to winning controllable paddocks from the bush (Near Cape Farewell, South Island).
Galvanised wire fencing - a huge revolution in farming and key to winning controllable paddocks from the bush (Near Cape Farewell, South Island).
Fantastically-contorted Manuka scrub near Cape Farewell at the north tip of the South Island. The trees appear to be blowing even without a wind.
Fantastically-contorted Manuka scrub near Cape Farewell at the north tip of the South Island. The trees appear to be blowing even without a wind.
Wind-scoured Manuka near Cape Farewell, South Island.
Wind-scoured Manuka near Cape Farewell, South Island.
Manuka foliage and seed-heads near Cape Farewell, Golden Bay.
Manuka foliage and seed-heads near Cape Farewell, Golden Bay.
A California quail (Callipepla californica) with its characteristic plume made of six feathers making a getway near the car park for Wharariki Beach to the west of Golden Bay.
A California quail (Callipepla californica) with its characteristic plume made of six feathers making a getway near the car park for Wharariki Beach to the west of Golden Bay.


To Golden Bay IX: Taupo Point and Abel Tasman


and here for photos of the Fur Seals